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Straw-coloured fruit
bats (Eidolon helvum) returning to roost. |
Every year roughly eight to ten million Straw-coloured fruit
bats
(Eidolon helvum) descend on a patch of forest
in Kasanka National Park. This is said to be the largest mammal migration in
the world. The bats come from all over central Africa to take advantage of the
fruiting of Masuku (
Uapaca kirkiana) and
Waterberry fruits (
Syzygium cordatum). I was lucky enough to travel to
Kasanka this year to witness the phenomena.
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Millions of bats in all directions. |
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A Martial Eagle sits waiting to snatch a bat. |
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An African Fish Eagle flies through the bats after an unsuccessful attempt at catching one. |
Kasanka is a smallo park in Serenje province, close to the
Democratic Republic of Congo Border. It is a beautiful park, with Miombo
Woodland, Dambos, Papyrus Swamps and some interesting evergreen forest types.
The bats congregate in a type of forest called Mushitu, which is
rich in wildlife.
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Bats flying around the Mashitu where the bats congregate. |
The bats can be viewed in the evening when leaving the roost
and in the morning when returning to the roost. In the evening the bats spread
out from the forest in search of feeding grounds – millions in all directions.
In the eveining the bats fly silently over, all one can hear is the gentle
sound their wings make (it sounds like a slow-moving river). Standing there in
the early evening, seeing the spectacle for the first time was an incredible
experience. It is incomparable to any other experience I have had.
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A view of a Dambo and some Puku from the forest.
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Roadblock! An elephant at Kasanka. |
In the mornings we viewed the bats returning to their roost
after they had been foraging. In the morning the bats are completely different.
They are noisy and fly around in all directions before resting. As it get
lighter one can begin to see the forest and all the raptors perching waiting to
take a bat for breakfast. The raptors I saw capitalising on the abundance of
food were white-backed vultures, Martial Eagles, African Fish Eagles, Black
Sparrow Hawks and various others.
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Kinda Baboon. |
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Puku, a nice looking antelope closely allied to Waterbuck. |
Besides bats, there are numerous interesting animals in
Kasanka. The birding in Kasnaka is amazing: I was hoping to see Ross’s Turaco
and I saw a lot. There are some unusual mammals. Blue Monkeys and Kinda Baboons
are two special mammals one can see easily. I enjoyed seeing the antelope
Sitatunga and Puku.
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Ngoshe or Black Mamba (Dendroaspis polylepis). A large graceful reptile. |
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A view of one of the large granite outcrops at Mutinondo.
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After spending a few days at Kasanka I journeyed to
Mutinondo Wilderness in Muchinga province near Mpika. This is a wilderness area
in some pristine Miombo woodland intersected by Dambos and chrystal clear
rivers. I spent about a week in Mutinondo just enjoying everything this remote
place has to offer. I saw Forest Cobras, many interesting frogs, many beautiful
birds and an interesting mammal, the Chequered Elephant Shrew (Rhynchocyon cirnei). I also enjoyed eating Masuku everyday.
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Masuku. One of my favourite fruits. Tasty, juicy and lying everywhere. |
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A view of Miombo woodland. |
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Brachystegia spiciformis, the most dominant Miombo tree at Mutinondo. |
Being in Zambia and experiencing the Miombo woodland for the
first time was so special for me.
Compared to the Bush I am used to in South Africa I found the Miombo
very soft. There are barely any thorn trees and not many rocks. One could walk
barefoot all day without having to worry about too much (well demonstrated by my friend Matt). It is very soft. The
Brachystegia trees are really interesting with quite a bit of diversity in the
genus. And then all the associated plants are very different too. Some trees I
could recognise as the same species or genus as down south, but most of the
flora was quite different. It was fascinating to walk through it.
Next on my journey was a substantial time spent in Lusaka,
catching up with old friends and making some new ones. Lusaka is a big city and
it is growing rapidly. We were staying on the outskirts and despite the rampant
development there was a lot of wildlife to be seen. Highlights in Lusaka were
all the Wahlberg’s Skinks (Trachylepis
wahlbergii), finding some wild Pandinus
scorpions, seeing my first Pennant-winged Nightjar and all the frogs. There are
a lot in Lusaka.
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Trachylepis wahlbergi, very common in Lusaka.
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Mike Chona showing me one of the local plants called Mulolo. |
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Pandinus viatoris, first time I have seen a member of this genus in the wild. |
My overall impressions of the country were positive.
Zambians are very “peacifo” and easy going. My local friend took me to the
inner city markets and into Chibolya compound dubbed the most
dangerous place in Lusaka and I am happy to report that it was very relaxed
compared to a place like Johannesburg. Just on the outskirts of Lusaka is a
forest called State Lodge Forest, this is one of the most beautiful parks I
have had the pleasure of walking through. It is nice Miombo woodland with many
birds and animals.
There are a few environmental issues in the country, rampant urban sprawl, pollution and deforestation. But this issue goes much deeper than what is seen on the surface. Perhaps in the future things will change as the general population manages to get out of poverty.
I
look forward to visiting Zambia in
the future again. Thanks to my friends Matt and Sam for sponsoring my
journey and allowing me to experience one of the most incredible natural
phenomena in the world.
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Amietophrynus guturalis, Lusaka.
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Amietophrynus
maculatus, Lusaka.
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Arthroleptis xenochirus, Mutinondo.
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Belostomatidae preying on Kassina senagalensis. |
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Breviceps poweri, Lusaka.
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Chondrodactylus turneri, Mutinondo. |
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Chamaeleo dilepis, Mutinondo. |
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Hemisus marmoratus, Lusaka. |
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Hilderbrandtia ornata, Lusaka. |
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Hyperolius kivuensis, Kasanka. |
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Kassina senegalensis, Lusaka. |
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Kinixys spekii, Mutinondo. |
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Leptopelis bocagi, Mutinondo. |
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Mertensophryne
taitan, Mutinondo.
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Pachydactylus oshaugnessyi, Lusaka. |
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Phrynobatrachus natalensis, Lusaka. |
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Ptychadena
mascareniensis, Lusaka.
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Ptychadena oxyrhynchus, Lusaka.
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Pyxicephalus adspersus, Lusaka.
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Schismaderma carens, Lusaka. |
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Xenopus, Lusaka. |
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Lygodactylus angolaensis, Mutinondo.
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Birds
African Darter
Hammerkop
Grey Heron
Black-headed Heron
Yello-billed Egret
Cattle Egret
Squacco Heron
Glossy Ibis
Hadeda Ibis
Saddle-billed Stork
African Openbill
Wooly-necked Stork
White-faced Duck
Spur-winged Goose
Black-shouldered Kite
Yellow-billed Kite
African Fish Eagle
Hooded Vulture
White-backed Vulture
Black-chested Snake Eagle
Bateleur
African Harrier Hawk
Black Sparrow Hawk
Steppe Buzzard
Augur Buzzard*
Martial Eagle
Amur Falcon
Helmeted Guineafowl
Coqui Francolin
Red-necked Spurfowl *
Black Crake
Common Moorhen
Wattled Crane
African Jacana
Bronze-winged Courser
African Wattled Lapwing
Crowned Lapwing
African Snipe
Red-eyed Dove
Cape Turtle Dove
African Green Pigeon
Grey-headed Parrot
Ross’s Turaco *
Schalow’s Turaco *
Diederic Cuckoo
Klaas’s Cuckoo
Africa Emerald Cuckoo
Levailant’s Cuckoo
Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo *
Red-chested Cuckoo
Black Cuckoo
Coppery-tailed Coucal *
Barn Owl
Marsh Owl
African Wood Owl
Spotted-eagle Owl
Barred Owlett
Freckled Nightjar
Pennant-winged Nightjar *
African Palm Swift
Speckeled Mousebird
Red-faced Mousebird
Narina Trogon
African Hoopoe
Green Woodhoopoe
Pied Kingfisher
Malachite Kingfisher
Grey-headed Kingfisher
Brown-hooded Kingfisher
Woodland Kingfisher
Striped Kingfisher
Lilac-breasted Roller
Little Bee-eater
White fronted Bee-eater
European Bee-eater
Southern Ground Hornbill
Crowned Hornbill
Trumpeter Hornbill
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird
Black-collared Barbet
Black-backed Barbet *
Golden-tailed Woodpecker
African Broadbill
Rufous-naped Lark
Black Saw-wing
Barn Swallow
Lesser Striped-swallow
Red-breasred Swallow
Mosque Swallow
Cape Wagtail
Striped Pipit
Black Cuckooshrike
Purple-throated Cuckooshrike *
White-breasted Cuckooshrike
Square-tailed Drongo
Fork-tailed Drongo
African Golden Oriole *Black-headed Oriole
Pied Crow
White-necked Raven
Grey Penduline Tit
Miombo Tit *
Rufous-bellied Tit *
Spotted Creeper *
Dark-capped Bulbul
Terrestrial Brownbul
Yellow-bellied Greenbul
Grey Olive Greenbul *
Groundscraper Thrush
Kurrichane Thrush
White-browed Robin Chat
Miombo Scrub Robin *
Common Stone Chat
Familiar Chat
Little Rush Warbler
Fan-tailed Grassbird *
Rattling Cisticola
Chirping Cisticola *
Croaking Cisticola
Yellow-breasted Apalis
Tawny-flanked Prinia
Yellow-bellied Eremomela
Grey-backed Cameraoptera
Stierling Barred Wren-Warbler
Southern Black Flycatcher
Ashy Flycatcher
Spotted Flycatcher
Collared Flycatcher *
African Paradise Flycatcher
Chinspot Batis
Black-throated Wattle-eye
Red-backed Shrike
Common Fiscal
Black-backed Puff-back
Brubru
Tropical Boubou
Orange-breasted Bush Shrike
Brown-crowned Tchagra
Black-crowned Tchagra
White-crested Helmet-shrike
Ret’z Helmet-shrike
Miombo Blue-eared Starling *
Violet-backed Starling
Red-billed Oxpecker
Amethyst Sunbird
Olive Sunbird
Western Violet-backed Sunbird *
Anchieta’s Sunbird *
Collared Sunbird
White-bellied Sunbird
African Yellow White-eye
House Sparrow
Spectacled Weaver
Village Weaver
Southern Masked Weaver
Dark-backed Weaver
Yellow-mantled Widowbird
Antailed Widowbird
Orange-winged Pytilia
Red-throated Twinspot *
Red-billed Firefinch
Brown Firefinch *
Bronze Mannikin
Blue Waxbill
Common Waxbill
Pin-tailed Whydah
Reichard’s Seed-eater *
Ciinamon-breasted Bunting
Cabanis’s Bunting
Reptiles
Naja melanoleuca (Mutinondo)
Dendroaspis polylepis (Kasanka)
Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia
(Lusaka)
Philothamnus sp (Mutinondo)
Dispholidus typus (Mutinondo)
Dasypeltis scabra (sloughed skin) (Lusaka)
Trachylepis margaritifer (Mutinondo)
Trachylepis wahlbergii * (Lusaka, Kasanka)
Trachylepis varia (Mutinondo, Lusaka)
Trachylepis striata ? (Mutinondo)
Afroablepharus ‘wahlbergii’ (Mutinondo)
Ichnotropis squamulosa (Lusaka)
Gerrhosaurus sp (Mutinondo)
Varanus niloticus (Kasanka)
Agama armata (Kasanka)
Acanthocercus atricollis (Mutinondo)
Chamaeleo dilepis (Mutinondo,
Lusaka)
Hemidactylus mabouia (Lusaka)
Lygodactylus capensis (Lusaka)
Lygodactylus angolaensis * (Mutinondo)
Pachydactylus puntatus (Lusaka)
Pachydactylus oshaughnessyi * (Lusaka)
Chondrodactylus turneri (Mutinondo)
Crocodylus niloticus (Kasanka)
Kinixys spekii (Mutinondo)
Frogs
Xenopus (Lusaka)
Hemisus marmoratus (Lusaka)
Amietophrynus guturalis (Lusaka)
Amietophrynus maculatus (Lusaka)
Schismaderma carens (Lusaka)
Mertensophryne taitana * (Mutinondo)
Arthroleptis stenodactylus * (Mutinondo)
Arthroleptis xenochirus * (Mutinondo)
Breviceps poweri *(Lusaka)
Hyperolius marmoratus (Lusaka)
Hyperolius kivuensis * (Kasanka)
Kassina senegalensis (Lusaka)
Leptopelis bocagi * (Mutinondo)
Phrynobatrachus natalensis (Lusaka)
Phrynobatrachus mababiensis (Lusaka)
Hildebrandtia ornata (Lusaka)
Pyxicephalus adspersus (Lusaka)
Ptychadena mascareniensis (Lusaka)
Ptychadena oxyrhynchus * (Lusaka)
Tomopterna cryptotis (Lusaka)
Ameita angolensis (Mutinondo)
Mammals (Sight,
sound, track and sign)
Epulated Fruit Bat (Kasanka, Mutinondo)
Straw-coloured Fruit bat (Kasanka)
Shrew (Mutinondo)
Chequered Elephant Shrew (Mutinondo)
Tree Squirrel (Mutinondo, Kasanka)
Gambian Giant Rat (Lusaka)
Porcupine (Mutinondo)
Scrub Hare (Mutinondo, Lusaka)
Yellow-spotted Hyrax (Heterohyrax) (Mutinondo)
Lesser bushbaby (Mutinondo)
Thick-tailed Bushbaby (Kasanka, Mutinondo)
Vervet Monkey (Mutinondo, Lusaka)
Blue monkey (Kasanka)
Yellow Baboon (Mutinondo)
Kinda Baboon (Kasanka, Kundalila)
Slender Mongoose (Mutinondo)
African Civet (Mutinondo)
Leopard (Mutinondo) – scat found at various sites too large
for serval and caracal. Too much hair and bone for hyaena.
Spotted Hyaena (Mutinondo)
Elephant (Kasanka)
Plains Zebra (Kasanka)
Hippopotomus (Kasnaka)
Duiker (Mutinondo)
Klipspringer (Mutinondo)
Reedbuck (Mutinondo)
Puku (Kasanka)
Sitatunga (Kasanka)
Bush Buck (Mutinondo, Kasanka)
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Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia, Lusaka.
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