Zambia: Miombo, Flogo, Peacifo, Beautifo!

Straw-coloured fruit bats (Eidolon helvum) returning to roost.

Every year roughly eight to ten million Straw-coloured fruit bats (Eidolon helvum) descend on a patch of forest in Kasanka National Park. This is said to be the largest mammal migration in the world. The bats come from all over central Africa to take advantage of the fruiting of Masuku (Uapaca kirkiana) and Waterberry fruits (Syzygium cordatum). I was lucky enough to travel to Kasanka this year to witness the phenomena.

Millions of bats in all directions.

A Martial Eagle sits waiting to snatch a bat.

An African Fish Eagle flies through the bats after an unsuccessful attempt at catching one.

Kasanka is a smallo park in Serenje province, close to the Democratic Republic of Congo Border. It is a beautiful park, with Miombo Woodland, Dambos, Papyrus Swamps and some interesting evergreen forest types. The bats congregate in a type of forest called Mushitu, which is rich in wildlife.

Bats flying around the Mashitu where the bats congregate.

The bats can be viewed in the evening when leaving the roost and in the morning when returning to the roost. In the evening the bats spread out from the forest in search of feeding grounds – millions in all directions. In the eveining the bats fly silently over, all one can hear is the gentle sound their wings make (it sounds like a slow-moving river). Standing there in the early evening, seeing the spectacle for the first time was an incredible experience. It is incomparable to any other experience I have had.

A view of a Dambo and some Puku from the forest.

Roadblock! An elephant at Kasanka.

In the mornings we viewed the bats returning to their roost after they had been foraging. In the morning the bats are completely different. They are noisy and fly around in all directions before resting. As it get lighter one can begin to see the forest and all the raptors perching waiting to take a bat for breakfast. The raptors I saw capitalising on the abundance of food were white-backed vultures, Martial Eagles, African Fish Eagles, Black Sparrow Hawks and various others.

Kinda Baboon.

Puku, a nice looking antelope closely allied to Waterbuck.

Besides bats, there are numerous interesting animals in Kasanka. The birding in Kasnaka is amazing: I was hoping to see Ross’s Turaco and I saw a lot. There are some unusual mammals. Blue Monkeys and Kinda Baboons are two special mammals one can see easily. I enjoyed seeing the antelope Sitatunga and Puku. 

Ngoshe or Black Mamba (Dendroaspis polylepis). A large graceful reptile.

A view of one of the large granite outcrops at Mutinondo.

After spending a few days at Kasanka I journeyed to Mutinondo Wilderness in Muchinga province near Mpika. This is a wilderness area in some pristine Miombo woodland intersected by Dambos and chrystal clear rivers. I spent about a week in Mutinondo just enjoying everything this remote place has to offer. I saw Forest Cobras, many interesting frogs, many beautiful birds and an interesting mammal, the Chequered Elephant Shrew (Rhynchocyon cirnei). I also enjoyed eating Masuku everyday.

Masuku. One of my favourite fruits. Tasty, juicy and lying everywhere.

A view of Miombo woodland.

Brachystegia spiciformis, the most dominant Miombo tree at Mutinondo.

Being in Zambia and experiencing the Miombo woodland for the first time was so special for me.  Compared to the Bush I am used to in South Africa I found the Miombo very soft. There are barely any thorn trees and not many rocks. One could walk barefoot all day without having to worry about too much (well demonstrated by my friend Matt). It is very soft. The Brachystegia trees are really interesting with quite a bit of diversity in the genus. And then all the associated plants are very different too. Some trees I could recognise as the same species or genus as down south, but most of the flora was quite different. It was fascinating to walk through it.

Next on my journey was a substantial time spent in Lusaka, catching up with old friends and making some new ones. Lusaka is a big city and it is growing rapidly. We were staying on the outskirts and despite the rampant development there was a lot of wildlife to be seen. Highlights in Lusaka were all the Wahlberg’s Skinks (Trachylepis wahlbergii), finding some wild Pandinus scorpions, seeing my first Pennant-winged Nightjar and all the frogs. There are a lot in Lusaka.

Trachylepis wahlbergi, very common in Lusaka.

Mike Chona showing me one of the local plants called Mulolo.

Pandinus viatoris, first time I have seen a member of this genus in the wild.

My overall impressions of the country were positive. Zambians are very “peacifo” and easy going. My local friend took me to the inner city markets and into Chibolya compound dubbed the most dangerous place in Lusaka and I am happy to report that it was very relaxed compared to a place like Johannesburg. Just on the outskirts of Lusaka is a forest called State Lodge Forest, this is one of the most beautiful parks I have had the pleasure of walking through. It is nice Miombo woodland with many birds and animals. 

There are a few environmental issues in the country, rampant urban sprawl, pollution and deforestation. But this issue goes much deeper than what is seen on the surface. Perhaps in the future things will change as the general population manages to get out of poverty.

I look forward to visiting Zambia in the future again. Thanks to my friends Matt and Sam for sponsoring my journey and allowing me to experience one of the most incredible natural phenomena in the world.

Amietophrynus guturalis, Lusaka.

Amietophrynus maculatus, Lusaka.

Arthroleptis xenochirus, Mutinondo.

Belostomatidae preying on Kassina senagalensis.

Breviceps poweri, Lusaka.

Chondrodactylus turneri, Mutinondo.

Chamaeleo dilepis, Mutinondo.

Hemisus marmoratus, Lusaka.

Hilderbrandtia ornata, Lusaka.

Hyperolius kivuensis, Kasanka.

Kassina senegalensis, Lusaka.

Kinixys spekii, Mutinondo.

Leptopelis bocagi, Mutinondo.

Mertensophryne taitan, Mutinondo.

Pachydactylus oshaugnessyi,  Lusaka.

Phrynobatrachus natalensis, Lusaka.

Ptychadena mascareniensis, Lusaka.

Ptychadena oxyrhynchus, Lusaka.

Pyxicephalus adspersus,  Lusaka.

Schismaderma carens, Lusaka.

Xenopus,  Lusaka.

Lygodactylus angolaensis, Mutinondo.

Birds

African Darter

Hammerkop

Grey Heron

Black-headed Heron

Yello-billed Egret

Cattle Egret

Squacco Heron

Glossy Ibis

Hadeda Ibis

Saddle-billed Stork

African Openbill

Wooly-necked Stork

White-faced Duck

Spur-winged Goose

Black-shouldered Kite

Yellow-billed Kite

African Fish Eagle

Hooded Vulture

White-backed Vulture

Black-chested Snake Eagle

Bateleur

African Harrier Hawk

Black Sparrow Hawk

Steppe Buzzard

Augur Buzzard*

Martial Eagle

Amur Falcon

Helmeted Guineafowl

Coqui Francolin

Red-necked Spurfowl *

Black Crake

Common Moorhen

Wattled Crane

African Jacana

Bronze-winged Courser

African Wattled Lapwing

Crowned Lapwing

African Snipe

Red-eyed Dove

Cape Turtle Dove

African Green Pigeon

Grey-headed Parrot

Ross’s Turaco *

Schalow’s Turaco *

Diederic Cuckoo

Klaas’s Cuckoo

Africa Emerald Cuckoo

Levailant’s Cuckoo

Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo *

Red-chested Cuckoo

Black Cuckoo

Coppery-tailed Coucal *

Barn Owl

Marsh Owl

African Wood Owl

Spotted-eagle Owl

Barred Owlett

Freckled Nightjar

Pennant-winged Nightjar *

African Palm Swift

Speckeled Mousebird

Red-faced Mousebird

Narina Trogon

African Hoopoe

Green Woodhoopoe

Pied Kingfisher

Malachite Kingfisher

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Brown-hooded Kingfisher

Woodland Kingfisher

Striped Kingfisher

Lilac-breasted Roller

Little Bee-eater

White fronted Bee-eater

European Bee-eater

Southern Ground Hornbill

Crowned Hornbill

Trumpeter Hornbill

Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird

Black-collared Barbet

Black-backed Barbet *

Golden-tailed Woodpecker

African Broadbill

Rufous-naped Lark

Black Saw-wing

Barn Swallow

Lesser Striped-swallow

Red-breasred Swallow

Mosque Swallow

Cape Wagtail

Striped Pipit

Black Cuckooshrike

Purple-throated Cuckooshrike *

White-breasted Cuckooshrike

Square-tailed Drongo

Fork-tailed Drongo

African Golden Oriole *Black-headed Oriole

Pied Crow

White-necked Raven

Grey Penduline Tit

Miombo Tit *

Rufous-bellied Tit *

Spotted Creeper *

Dark-capped Bulbul

Terrestrial Brownbul

Yellow-bellied Greenbul

Grey Olive Greenbul *

Groundscraper Thrush

Kurrichane Thrush

White-browed Robin Chat

Miombo Scrub Robin *

Common Stone Chat

Familiar Chat

Little Rush Warbler

Fan-tailed Grassbird *

Rattling Cisticola

Chirping Cisticola *

Croaking Cisticola

Yellow-breasted Apalis

Tawny-flanked Prinia

Yellow-bellied Eremomela

Grey-backed Cameraoptera

Stierling Barred Wren-Warbler

Southern Black Flycatcher

Ashy Flycatcher

Spotted Flycatcher

Collared Flycatcher *

African Paradise Flycatcher

Chinspot Batis

Black-throated Wattle-eye

Red-backed Shrike

Common Fiscal

Black-backed Puff-back

Brubru

Tropical Boubou

Orange-breasted Bush Shrike

Brown-crowned Tchagra

Black-crowned Tchagra

White-crested Helmet-shrike

Ret’z Helmet-shrike

Miombo Blue-eared Starling *

Violet-backed Starling

Red-billed Oxpecker

Amethyst Sunbird

Olive Sunbird

Western Violet-backed Sunbird *

Anchieta’s Sunbird *

Collared Sunbird

White-bellied Sunbird

African Yellow White-eye

House Sparrow

Spectacled Weaver

Village Weaver

Southern Masked Weaver

Dark-backed Weaver

Yellow-mantled Widowbird

Antailed Widowbird

Orange-winged Pytilia

Red-throated Twinspot *

 Red-billed Firefinch

Brown Firefinch *

Bronze Mannikin

Blue Waxbill

Common Waxbill

Pin-tailed Whydah

Reichard’s Seed-eater *

Ciinamon-breasted Bunting

Cabanis’s Bunting

Reptiles

Naja melanoleuca (Mutinondo)

Dendroaspis polylepis (Kasanka)

Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia  (Lusaka)

Philothamnus sp (Mutinondo)

Dispholidus typus (Mutinondo)

Dasypeltis scabra (sloughed skin) (Lusaka)

Trachylepis margaritifer (Mutinondo)

Trachylepis wahlbergii * (Lusaka, Kasanka)

Trachylepis varia (Mutinondo, Lusaka)

Trachylepis striata ? (Mutinondo)

Afroablepharus ‘wahlbergii’ (Mutinondo)

Ichnotropis squamulosa (Lusaka)

Gerrhosaurus sp (Mutinondo)

Varanus niloticus (Kasanka)

Agama armata (Kasanka)

Acanthocercus atricollis (Mutinondo)

Chamaeleo dilepis (Mutinondo, Lusaka)

Hemidactylus mabouia (Lusaka)

Lygodactylus capensis (Lusaka)

Lygodactylus angolaensis * (Mutinondo)

Pachydactylus puntatus (Lusaka)

Pachydactylus oshaughnessyi * (Lusaka)

Chondrodactylus turneri (Mutinondo)

Crocodylus niloticus (Kasanka)

Kinixys spekii (Mutinondo)

Frogs

Xenopus (Lusaka)

Hemisus marmoratus (Lusaka)

Amietophrynus guturalis (Lusaka)

Amietophrynus maculatus (Lusaka)

Schismaderma carens (Lusaka)

Mertensophryne taitana * (Mutinondo)

Arthroleptis stenodactylus * (Mutinondo)

Arthroleptis xenochirus * (Mutinondo)

Breviceps poweri  *(Lusaka)

Hyperolius marmoratus (Lusaka)

Hyperolius kivuensis * (Kasanka)

Kassina senegalensis (Lusaka)

Leptopelis bocagi * (Mutinondo)

Phrynobatrachus natalensis (Lusaka)

Phrynobatrachus mababiensis (Lusaka)

Hildebrandtia ornata (Lusaka)

Pyxicephalus adspersus (Lusaka)

Ptychadena mascareniensis (Lusaka)

Ptychadena oxyrhynchus * (Lusaka)

Tomopterna cryptotis (Lusaka)

Ameita angolensis (Mutinondo)

Mammals (Sight, sound, track and sign)

Epulated Fruit Bat (Kasanka, Mutinondo)

Straw-coloured Fruit bat (Kasanka)

Shrew (Mutinondo)

Chequered Elephant Shrew (Mutinondo)

Tree Squirrel (Mutinondo, Kasanka)

Gambian Giant Rat (Lusaka)

Porcupine (Mutinondo)

Scrub Hare (Mutinondo, Lusaka)

Yellow-spotted Hyrax (Heterohyrax) (Mutinondo)

Lesser bushbaby (Mutinondo)

Thick-tailed Bushbaby (Kasanka, Mutinondo)

Vervet Monkey (Mutinondo, Lusaka)

Blue monkey (Kasanka)

Yellow Baboon (Mutinondo)

Kinda Baboon (Kasanka, Kundalila)

Slender Mongoose (Mutinondo)

African Civet (Mutinondo)

Leopard (Mutinondo) – scat found at various sites too large for serval and caracal. Too much hair and bone for hyaena.

Spotted Hyaena (Mutinondo)

Elephant (Kasanka)

Plains Zebra (Kasanka)

Hippopotomus (Kasnaka)

Duiker (Mutinondo)

Klipspringer (Mutinondo)

Reedbuck (Mutinondo)

Puku (Kasanka)

Sitatunga (Kasanka)

Bush Buck (Mutinondo, Kasanka)

Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia, Lusaka.